My last in public event pre-pandemic was during NYFW. I hosted a fashion show for Emerge Fashion Show at the Broad Street Ballroom. It was also a fashion life moment as I got to celebrate and honor THE Fern Mallis (for my non-fashion folks, she is the creator of NYFW, former Executive Director of the CFDA...I could go on and on...).
Emerge Fashion Show is just how it sounds—a platform for emerging designers to show at NYFW. Designers apply and Dionne Williams (the founder) chooses who will get to showcase their collection. This is huge because it can cost upwards of $250K to show at NYFW. No, you didn't read this wrong. A quarter of a million dollars, for 10 minutes.
I've always had a problem with this business model. It's a debt-inducing cycle that needs to be fixed. Designers pay to elevate their brand, have buyers attend, and invite influencers and editors to create a buzz. However, that $250K could be used for producing garments. As a former buyer, when a designer gets a PO (purchase order) from a retailer, they don't get the money upfront, meaning they have to front the initial cost. This may be okay for a larger brand, but for up-and-coming designers and smaller brands, this can be a financial strain or even improbable. For example, if you are a seasonal business (coats, swimwear), larger retailers often place an RTV (return to vendor) in for brands and designers. This means at the end of the season, whatever doesn't sell, the Buyer sends it back. That stock is sold to an off-price retailer (think a Ross or Marshall's) or if it consists of a replenishment item (think a simple black coat), they save it for the following season.
$250K to show at NYFW creates a socio-economic exclusiveness that doesn't fuel diversity or support new talent. With fashion week being largely digital, this leveled the playing field (and brought a new bout of creativity—hello, Hanifa!). Fashion should push the boundaries of aesthetic and presentation should push to higher levels.
